East Martindale Fells – 100 and counting.

Day 19 – Monday 6 April. With the weather forecast to be wet and windy, it was very brave of David & Dorothy Hepworth and John & Helen Rushton to get up early enough to meet me at Howtown (Ullswater) at 9.30 am. Still, it turned out to be dry, and the kind proprietor of the hotel allowed us to park our cars there. The plan was for me to start off with my ‘guests’ who would then leave me to it (I’d 10 fells on the agenda) before joining up later for a swift half – all very civilised!


The approach to Bonscale Pike (1718’) was extremely steep – even vertiginous – which had everyone puffing and panting. I left the party and headed for Arthur’s Pike (1747’), meeting up again (and departing again) on the path to Loadpot Hill (2201’) – Fell Number 100 so I celebrated by having a Twix (it’s an exciting life...).

On to Wether Hill (2210’), and then I met a mountain biker with a seriously defunct mike – he’d smashed the disc brakes. As there are no disc brakes on proper road bikes I couldn’t really do much to help so pressed on to High Raise (2634’) which was followed in quick succession by Kidsty Pike (2560’), Rampsgill Head (2581’) and The Knott (2423’). The amazing thing was that all this time, the weather stayed fine, with clear views all around – I could hardly believe my luck.

After a steep descent there was a corresponding rise to the summit of Rest Dodd (2278’), after which I was fully expecting to become a trespasser as The Nab (1887’) is supposed to be private, a part of the Martindale Deer Sanctuary. But there was a stile in the fence, with a notice asking you to keep your dog on a lead to protect the deer, which seemed to me to be an implicit acceptance of a right of way, so on I went, across peat hags which must be absolutely dire in wet conditions, over the summit and down the extremely steep north face, past The Bungalow (a strange green-walled building with a red tin roof, formerly a shooting lodge and now a holiday cottage) before arriving at the public road just after 3 o’clock. I must be speeding up!

David and John saved me a trudge along the road by picking me up and the promised pint was duly quaffed at the Howtown Hotel before we went home our separate ways. With 10 fells in one day the total now stands at a healthy 106 – nearly half way!

Photos: 1. David, Dorothy, John and Helen before the start; 2. The summit of Bonscale Pike; 3. At the top of Kidsty Pike, courtesy of passing walker; 4. High Street from Rampsgill Head.

High Winds Force a Partial Retreat

Day 18 – Saturday 4 April. Val wasn’t sure whether to join us but decided to go home and get some jobs done, which turned out to be a good call! So Mike and I had only Philip Bailey for company. We left one car at the Coniston car park where a group of racing cyclists were preparing to set off, making me a bit jealous, especially looking at some of the expensive machinery. We took the other car up Walna Scar Road and then set off for the first fell of the Coniston Round. After overnight rain the clouds were fairly low and the wind was stronger than expected.

It’s quite a trek along the Walna Scar Road but eventually we left it at the summit and headed up for Dow Crag (2555’). Every fell on the Coniston Round is over 2500’. We were now in cloud and the wind was getting very strong indeed. At the rocky summit it was so cold and windy I couldn’t be bothered to get the camera out – and this was to be the pattern set for the rest of the day, as misty pictures of desolate summits seemed a bit pointless. Nevertheless, Mike kept true to the photographic record on each one.

From Dow Hause there was another climb to the summit of Coniston Old Man (2633’). So much mist was condensing out on my glasses that for the first time I can recall, I could see better without them. And if you’ve ever tried looking through my glasses you’ll realise how bad that must be! At the top of the Old Man, an elderly-looking lady, who appeared to have been dragged up there on the miners’ track against her will by daughter and son-in-law, was complaining about the conditions and asking which was the easy way down. She seemed devastated when we told her that the easiest way down was the way she had come up, and said “I’m 66 you know!”. She was certainly non-plussed to discover that this was exactly the average age of Philip and Mike!! As a spring-chicken some 10 years junior, I kept quiet.

Brim Fell (2611’) was an easy stroll (well it would have been in better conditions), and then it was a further mile and a half to Swirl How (2630’), involving more of a descent and climb. As soon as we set off towards Great Carrs (only 600 yds distant, 2575’) the wind became almost hurricane force and unrelenting. It must have been accentuated by the topography of that part of the mountain, but I can tell you that it was difficult to stay upright, which is a bit scary when you are only a few yards from the edge of a steep drop. Grey Friar (2536’) should have been next on the agenda but it was deemed too dangerous, so we went back to Swirl How to see what conditions looked like on the Prison Band, the route to Wetherlam (2502’).

The wind wasn’t too bad but unaccountably we took a wrong turn and went North instead of East, losing too much altitude. After a brief conference where unanimity was, for once, lacking, we headed back uphill and east, only to find Prison Band at exactly the same time as a large party was walking along it, making the contrast between our lonely situation and this appear like crossing a motorway!

The wind increased again at the summit of Wetherlam but at least the clouds were lifting a little. Descending to the tranquil environs of Coniston (the Grand National was about to start) it was hard to believe the contrast in conditions between the valley and the tops.

And so we finished the day with a total tally of 96 but disappointed in the fact that we will have to go back and climb Grey Friar (from Wrynose Pass) all on its own.

Pictures: 1. Old pack-horse bridge on Walna Scar Road; 2. The view from Prison Band as the clouds lift. Sorry there aren't any more, I was just too cold and miserable to be bothered!

Brief Encounter in Bowness

As a postscript to Friday’s diary entry, we went out to Rastelli’s in Bowness (the finest Italian Restaurant in the country – it isn’t expensive, it’s just that the service is superb) and then went for a ‘last one’ at the Hole in the Wall. Who should be there but that esteemed raconteur, bon viveur and serial second-hand car buyer Richard Bennett, along with Steph and a group of Shropshire lads and their ladies. We had stumbled upon a reunion meeting of the group which visited Everest Base Camp a couple of years ago. It goes without saying that we stopped out longer, and had a little more to drink, than we had planned!

Anyway, thanks for the donation to the Rosemere Cancer Foundation, thanks Mike for the drink, and here’s a couple of photographs showing Mr Bennett and two of the participants (Mike is one, sorry but I’ve forgotten the other name!) which will give you a flavour of what goes on at Everest Base Camp.

Oh, and you may be wondering how this group of intrepid mountaineers were planning to spend the following day in the Lake District. A traverse of the Helvellyn group for instance, or an assault on Scafell Pikes? Er, no, they were going to take the ferry to Ambleside and go shopping!

Just as a further aside I was watching a programme on the film director David Lean the other night, and saw a great illustration of the wonderful range of vocabulary enjoyed by the English language. One of his films was Brief Encounter, and whilst mentioning the various countries where it was screened I noticed a Danish poster for the film, entitled ‘Det korte mode’ – Brief Encounter had become ‘The Short Meeting’. Lovely.

An Easy Day in Eskdale

Day 17 – Friday 3 April saw us having a leisurely start as the plan was to climb only three fells today – Hard Knott, Harter Fell and Green Crags. Val had decided to join us, so after meeting up with Mike we drove to the summit of Hardknott Pass and after a brief drama caused by me dropping a back wheel of the car off the edge of the tarmac (too busy talking) we set off for the summit which gives the notorious 1-in-3 pass its name. The light wind was blowing in cloud all the time, and although tantalisingly close to warm sunshine, we could never get away from the mist and cloud and failed to see what I am assured are fabulous views from the top of Hard Knott (1803’). In fact even the top proved harder than expected to find, as in the mist the height of the various crags was deceptive.

Returning to the car we picked up our rucksacks and headed south for the summit of Harter Fell (2140’). This is an attractive ‘stand-alone’ fell with an interesting approach past Demming Crag and a rocky top. It looked like the sun would finally burn off the clouds but as we got out the sandwiches at the top they rolled back in, preventing us once again from enjoying the view.

From Harter Fell the route to Green Crag (1602’) went across plenty of wet, boggy ground, but the final approach was interesting and craggy again, making this much more fun than expected. There followed quite a long walk out, along the tracks of Hardknott Forest, to the picnic area at Birks Bridge near where Mike had left his car.

Reaching the Three Shires Stone at the top of Wrynose Pass at 5 o’clock we decided that we had time to climb Pike o’ Blisco (2304’), which would make the circuit of hills at the Head of Langdale a bit easier later on. So Val took my car back to Bowness (with instructions to book a meal at Rastelli’s) while Mike and I “got a wiggle on”, visiting the summit and returning to the car by 6.40. Alf Wainwright would not have approved of such haste!

Still, a pleasant day’s outing with the total now at a healthy 90 tops completed.

Pictures: 1. Val powering up Harter Fell; 2. Mike and I at the summit of Harter Fell; 3. Val and I on Green Crag; 4. Mike at the Pike o' Blisco summit.

No More Tooth....ache

Stop Press - What a way to spend your day off! Went to the dentist this morning: he said the offending tooth would have to come out. After intensive questioning (Can I walk tomorrow? - yes ... I need to eat lots today - no problem) he pulled the offending thing out. I wonder if the tooth fairy will put a bit of sponsorship on the justgiving site?

Back o’Skidda and Terrible Toothache

Day 16, Wednesday 1 April and today we were joined by Bill Barker. It’s been a very sociable week! I thought the BBC news was running an April Fool’s joke but apparently Alan Shearer really has gone to manage Newcastle United. I’d been suffering from toothache for a while and it was getting progressively worse, to the point of distraction at times.

Today’s itinerary is unique in that the fells are a bit widely spread so the car needs to be used to cut down the walking, which would in any case be along the road. So first up was Binsey (1466’), a lone hill, the most North-Westerly of all the Lakeland Fells and probably the easiest summit to reach across gently grassy slopes. The sun was shining, skylarks were singing and to the north, the Solway Firth was wreathed in mist like cotton wool.

Returning to the car it was Mike’s turn today for a navigational faux pas, taking me up the wrong track: we wanted the Skiddaw House road but went up a parallel access road which ended in a padlocked gate and a long way to reverse back as there was no room to turn. Once on the right track we parked near Dead Beck – two vehicles were there, with their occupants: if they had wanted to, they could have shuffled around and made room for us, but despite being asked it seemed like they couldn’t be bothered so we just went on the grass further down. They were transferring ‘plumbing equipment’ from a van to a 4x4 and I’m still not convinced there wasn’t something fishy going on.

Then strenuously up the steep slope by Dead Crags and on to the top of Bakestall (2189’), coming down an easier way along Birkett Edge with Red Grouse, Wheatear and Ravens putting in appearances. Lunch was a quick affair at the car – we’d seven fells to do today and by 12.30 we’d only done two.

Parking at Longlands we set off for the wonderfully named Great Cockup (1720’) (this isn’t an April Fool joke either). There was a phone signal so I rang Val from the top (she thought Great Cockup was a wind-up) to ask her to ring the dentist and make an appointment for me tomorrow. The next four fells were quite straightforward – rounded grassy fells with no outstanding features, but pleasant walking in the fine weather. Meal Fell (1770’) has a shooting butt on the summit. Then the highest of this group of five, Great Sca Fell (no relation to Scafell) at 2131’, followed by Brae Fell (1920’) and finally Longlands Fell (1580’). Mike was setting targets for each one so we ended up doing the round of five in only 3½ hours. Then we were off back home again, with a total of 86 fells done, 128 to go – getting nearer the hundred mark, and tomorrow’s a day off. Hooray!

Perhaps I ought to annotate the photos. The first one is Dash Falls, near Bakestall. The second shows how true mountaineers eat their lunch. No 3 - The two Bills (Barker and Honeywell) at the summit of Great Cockup, and finally Mike and Bill B approaching Great Sca Fell.

On to The Northern Fells

Day 15 – Tuesday 31 March. Mike Watkins re-joined the fray and today we were also accompanied by John Meadows, Ian Jones and Chris Driver. On the way to the start in Mungrisdale village visibility was down to 50 yards over Kirkstone, but once over the watershed the weather brightened up and we started the walk in beautiful sunshine. Yellowhammers were singing in the fields outside the village and everything was very jolly!

We climbed steeply to the ridge of Souther Fell (1680’) – an unusual whale-back of a hill which is almost completely encircled by the River Glenderamackin, like a moat. As we reached the top, the mist which was being formed on Blencathra started blowing our way, and stayed with us throughout the next ascent, so that whilst down in the valley it was bright and sunny, we were in thick mist with hardly any visibility. We had already decided not to ascend Blencathra via Sharp Edge (I’ve done it once and that was enough!) so we followed the steep zig-zag path to the summit at 2847’ and, as it was relatively calm at the top, had a spot of lunch (this sounds very civilised but the reality consists of a squashed ham sandwich and a flask of Cup-a-Soup).

I then started to lead us off the summit in the wrong direction until queried by Mike. Fortunately we had only gone 100 yards. A steep descent followed, down to the squelchy tread across to the strange summit of Mungrisdale Common (2068’). I say strange because there is hardly any rise to it at all, and even Wainwright seemed to put forward a good argument for not including it in his book. Anyway, it’s there, so it had to be done; the highest point would be virtually devoid of interest if it weren’t for the fact that it is the focus of a quite remarkable number of sheep tracks. By now all the mist was gone from Blencathra and the weather was great – we should have started an hour later!

Next on the agenda was an easy trek across damp moorland to Bannerdale Crags (2230’) – the crags on the far side really are quite impressive – and then on to the final fell of the day, Bowscale Fell (2306’), where we met a young man who was hoping to visit the top of every single “Birkett” of which there are 400+, although I’m not sure how they are defined. Hang on, I’ve just Googled it and they are the 541 tops over 1000’ as listed in Bill Birkett’s The Complete Lake District Fells. There you are.

On the descent Mike was suggesting that we climb Binsey, an isolated fell scheduled to be done tomorrow. Fortunately when we arrived at Mungrisdale the pub was open and democracy saved the day as the vote went in favour of a quick pint. 5 tops today, 79 down, 135 to go.

Tonight is our first stay with Allan and Sandra Boardman, good friends of Mike’s who are putting us up at their house near Cockermouth. Without their help, and equally Robert and Margaret Berry for loaning their accommodation in Bowness, the whole project would be very difficult indeed, so a big thank you to you guys, it’s very much appreciated.