About This Blog

Margaret Watkins was a very special person who lost her battle against Breast Cancer in December 2008. She loved to walk the Lake District Hills with her husband Mike, so I decided to walk all 214 'Wainwrights' - in two months - in her memory, to raise money for the Rosemere Cancer Foundation, based at The Royal Preston Hospital. Margaret's husband Mike kept me company on much of the walk, which we did between 9 March and 2 May 2009, starting with Great Mell Fell and finishing on Loughrigg. The total amount raised now exceeds £8,500, and when all the money is in and Gift Aid is added I am hoping we may go over the £10,000 mark.

The Rosemere Cancer Foundation relies entirely upon charitable donations, receiving nothing from the NHS, and yet manages to be of great benefit to cancer patients throughout Lancs and S Lakes as well as sponsoring cancer research.

If reading this blog inspires you to want to help the fight against cancer, you can make a donation by going to www.justgiving.com/billhoneywell

Fund Raising Update & Other Matters

Less than a week since the end of the walk and sponsorship money is still coming in, with the total now over £6,800, which will gross up to almost £8,000 with Gift Aid. Thanks must go to the Clitheroe Advertiser and Times for their continued support and publicity, with a great article this week. More funds are promised so we haven't finished yet!!

In Lakeland, the Westmorland Gazette will also feature an article either this week or next, and I had a nice email from John Burland, editor of The Wainwright Society's quarterly magazine 'Footsteps', telling me that he thought my round of all 214 in 55 days was the fastest by an 'ordinary fell-walker' (by the way, Joss Naylor's time was actually 6 days 23 hours and 11 minutes apparently) - and the next edition in September will contain a full-page article on the challenge, with another opportunity to publicise the Rosemere Cancer Foundation.

Now don't laugh, but tomorrow Val and I are off to Scotland to walk the West Highland Way - it's only 97 miles and not too hilly, so it should be like having a nice rest!!

A Few Notes In Conclusion

My little ‘speech’ on the green at Elterwater, as far as I can recall:-

It’s eight weeks since we started on Great Mell Fell, and at the very beginning I was in deep depression – as we got out of the car to put on our boots the heavens opened, and before we were ready to go I was already wet through and my fingers were cold and white. That’s when I thought we’d never really get started, never mind finished.

Yesterday the rain came down in truly Biblical proportions but we felt we had to go out and get those penultimate fells done, as it would have been such an anti-climax to have all our friends present on Saturday without it really being THE END.

And here we are, with all 214 tops completed in 39 walking days, 55 days total. The idea of this walk was to do something in memory of Margaret Watkins and raise some money for the Rosemere Cancer Foundation who helped her so much. And I’d do all 214 again if it would bring Margaret back, but that’s not to be. So far the total amount raised is approaching £6,000: I’m very grateful to all those who have donated so generously, and I hope those people who haven’t yet donated will do so soon.

This challenge was not a solo effort – these things never are – their success depends on many people. I want to thank all of them, but if I mention everyone we’ll never get home, so I hope you won’t be offended if I miss you out.

Mike Watkins – who agreed to me doing this, and ended up doing 136 fells with me, with 99% faultless navigation and no shortage of conversation, not all of which I could hear on windy days with my balaclava on, but it didn’t seem to make too much difference.

Robert and Margaret Berry for generously allowing us to stay in their Lake District home, and Allan and Sandra Boardman for providing fantastic digs in Cockermouth – without them the cost of accommodation would have been prohibitive.

The Parkinsons for allowing me to gatecrash their Easter party at the Buttermere Climbing Hut, which was such a great weekend.

All the people who have joined the walk – too numerous to mention, but just special thanks to Ian Hardy – and Carol for being so understanding – Ian turned out on some days when it would otherwise have been difficult solo, and also in some of the worst weather we’ve had (until yesterday!), even though Margaret up there obviously did her best to organise some great weather.

To Val, of course, for food, washing clothes, having to sleep on her own which she hates – I suppose the only way she’s able to put up with me is if Im not at home too much. And to everyone who’s given practical and moral support, and all those who have donated so generously to the Rosemere, all of which has kept me going.

So before I rabbit on for too long, let’s all just raise our glasses to the inspiration behind all this – the exuberant Margaret.

Good Friends And Fellowship In The Fells

Day 39 – the final day – Saturday 2 May, after 54 days one I wasn’t always sure would arrive! But here we were, ready to tackle the easy round of Holme Fell and Black Fell with the grand finale on Loughrigg Fell. Various friends had come to the car park at Tom Gill to join us for the full day – Tony & Alison Spencer, John & Catherine Taylor, Frank & Bernadette Brown, Michael & Liz Parkinson, David & Dorothy Hepworth, Simon Clarke, Ian Hardy, Roger Dugdale, and of course Val, making a party of 16, with more to join later on at Skelwith Bridge. And today the weather was perfect.

It was an easy climb through woodland to the little rocky top of Holme Fell (1040’), from where the route undulated along the north ridge to cross the Coniston Road, where much amusement was caused by the bus stop sign.

We passed a picturesque small tarn with bog beans, lilies and damselflies, through a larch plantation followed by a bit of a drama crossing a wall before joining the good track which leads to the summit of Black Fell (1056’), where we realised we were running a little late for our rendezvous with the other friends who would be joining us. With hotels, bars and cafes there was little point worrying about how they would pass the time…

Progress remained necessarily slow as we dropped down steeply into boggy woodland, where paths were non-existent. Finally we arrived at Skelwith Bridge and just about found time to have a (very) small amount of liquid refreshment, before our party grew with the addition of Gordon Smith, Howard & Gillian Spensley, Allan Boardman, Trevor Watkins plus James and Harry, Carol Hardy plus Sarah & Katie. John & Rose Whitehead had set off early (a bit too early as it happened!) expecting us to catch them before we reached the top of Loughrigg Fell (1101’) and were left with a chilly wait. Other non-walking friends were there too, making it a social affair indeed.

We followed the track around Loughrigg Tarn and then followed the steep pitched path to the summit. And there we were at last – in under two months, after 55 days (39 walking days), here was the 214th and last top, and the whole situation – weather, company – couldn’t have been better. It now became apparent that a few heroic individuals had been carrying bottles of champagne and wine up to the top, as a cork popped and the bubbly was poured – by Simon Clarke, who I think was worried that I might emulate a Grand Prix finish and leave everyone feeling a bit sticky on the way to Elterwater! Ian Hardy surprised me by presenting a £1000 cheque for £the Rosemere Cancer Foundation from Clitheroe Round Table, which was very gratefully received.

Someone mentioned that before we left the summit Chris Smith, former Labour Minister of Culture and well-known Munro-bagger, turned up and I imagine he can onlyl have been rather bemused at the goings-on. The route back to Elterwater was a little less than straightforward but didn’t take long. Meeting us half a mile from the village along the river path were Robert & Margaret, John & Joan Myers, and Janet & John Spedding. John has Multiple Sclerosis and his positive attitude is an inspiration to all those who find themselves in his situation: it was typical of him to make the effort to come and greet us.

The Britannia was already full before we arrived to swell the numbers even further, but the green outside was the perfect place to gather and reflect on the previous eight weeks, say our thank-yous (there were many) and drink a final toast to Margaret, the inspiration behind the whole Challenge, before saying our final good-byes.

Well, in many cases not so final – several of us were staying over in Bowness and we’d booked an evening meal at the absolutely excellent Rastelli’s Italian Restaurant. Sunday was to be a rest day around Bowness and Ambleside, perhaps to include a boat trip on the Lake, mainly because no one dares suggest GOING FOR A WALK!!

Photos: 1. Morning meeting at Tom Gill; 2. Click to enlarge if you want to appreciate this (non) bus stop; 3. Striding out on the last lap; 4. A welcome handshake from Gordon Smith as Mike looks on.

I Never Knew It Could Rain So Much!

Day 38 – Friday 1 May. With a late start already decided upon the previous evening, Mike and I got up late (7.45) to find a sunny, bright morning with Carol Kirkwood promising rain mid-morning until early evening. Realising our change of plan had been a bad decision (and that I should have peeped out of the window at 6 o’clock) we hurried our breakfast and set off to at least start in the dry.

We left our car at the Old Dungeon Ghyll and were taken up to Wrynose Pass by Robert and Margaret, where we set off at a brisk pace for Cold Pike (2259’). So far so good, but before we reached Crinkle Crags the rain started and it was on with waterproofs, balaclava, two pairs of gloves, the works! Despite the rain, we kept fairly clear conditions to the summit (the second Crinkle) at 2816’, and buoyed up by munching pork pies we continued the rocky, undulating traverse. Soon the cloud dropped lower and the rain got heavier. And heavier, and heavier, until it seemed to have reached proportions of a Biblical scale. What height is Mount Ararat, I wonder?

After the steep bouldery climb in almost nil visibility from the Three Tarns col we summited Bowfell (2960’), then took the path to Ore Gap. From here the route down to Angle Tarn resembled a river bed more than a path, and ribbons of white water rushed down the hillsides everywhere. A short re-ascent took in the last top of the day, Rossett Pike (2106’), before we headed down Rossett Gill – another river bed at this stage.

For the whole two mile walk along Mickleden the wind drove the rain into our faces, from where nothing could stop it running down inside our waterproofs, leaving us absolutely soaked to the skin. Once inside the Old Dungeon Ghyll we stripped off our waterproofs, ordered a pint and stood in front of the fire, steaming enough almost to form our own personal rainbows. There was one note of satisfaction though – we were still bang on schedule and with only the final day’s three fells to go, tomorrow WOULD be the last day.

Satisfied or not, I got a bit grumpy with Val (sorry!) when she wasn’t on time to pick me up from the Lodge to take me to the cottage which we had rented for the weekend with the Browns, Spencers and Taylors, but it’s difficult to be cheerful when you’re cold and wet through. And apologies to Roger Dugdale, who had to miss out on the day because of all the uncertainties the day before – but perhaps he wasn’t too disappointed at missing a 5-hour cold bath!

Photos: 1. Robert sets us off from Wrynose Pass; 2. Red Tarn, The Crinkles and Bowfell while the weather holds; 3. Cold Pike summit, Crinkles and Bowfell behind; 4. The top of Crinkle Crags with Bowfell in the background. No photos possible once the rain started!

The Grey Friar Captured At Last

Day 37 – Thursday 30 April – Thursday, a rainy day, should have been a day off, but the forecast for Friday looked so bad I decided we might be better starting at dawn the following day to get as much as possible done before we got soaked. Which meant going to Bowness today, giving us the chance to climb Grey Friar (2536’) – the mountain we missed on the Coniston Round four weeks ago - in the evening, weather permitting.

As we arrived at Wrynose Pass at 5.15 pm it was still cloudy and misty but the rain had stopped, so we set off up to Wet Side Ridge in hope, and as we reached Fairfield Col between Great Carrs and Grey Friar the cloud lifted, allowing us to see our objective at last, as well as the surrounding Coniston Fells. Although the mist came back at the top, the weather cleared completely on the descent and we were treated to glorious evening sunshine.

My fitness must be improving (at last!) – 65 mins up, 70 mins down, hardly any difference.

Back at Robert & Margaret’s lodge in Bowness we phoned for the latest Lakes forecast, which gave heavy rain from early morning, clearing early afternoon, and changed our plan from a dawn start to perhaps a 1pm start and a late finish – a decision we were later to regret, and from which flowed a long series of mutual recriminations (in good humour, of course!).

Two more days and seven fells to go, but with Crinkle Crags and Bowfell, still two big hills tomorrow.

Photos: 1. Grey Friar emerges from the mist; 2. Finally on the summit!

of our elusive fell!; 3. Looking towards Elterwater in the evening sun; 4. Pike o'Blisco.

Arrangements for Saturday 2 May

As promised (see earlier post re Final Day) here is my best estimate for times / distances / meeting points for Saturday:

Start: Tom Gill National Trust Car Park (pay & display unless you are an NT member) on the main Ambleside – Coniston road (usual way to Tarn Hows), MR 322999. Starting at 10.00 and climbing Holme Fell (1040’)

From the summit of Holme Fell we go roughly NE along the ridge and rejoin the main road at Oxen Fell High Cross (MR 328018). We should be here around 11.15 but if you are planning on joining here please (a) be sure to let me know and (b) be there early, in case we are ahead of schedule.

Next we climb Black Fell (1056’) and then go along the north ridge to Skelwith Bridge, arriving around 12.45. Those joining here should arrive by 12.30 and loiter around the road junction to Great Langdale / Elterwater / Raw Head – no doubt you will meet other members of the afternoon party!

On to Loughrigg (1101’) involving a climb of around 1000’, after which the paln is to walk to Elterwater, where I expect we should arrive at The Britannia around 3.00.

I hope the above is clear. I am now planning to return to Lakeland this afternoon (Thursday) to do Grey Friar and get a dawn start tomorrow before the bad weather comes in, so if you are unsure of any details you can ring me on my mobile, or if I am unavailable Howard Spensley has agreed to take questions (!). I can’t really put mobile numbers on the Blog so if you don’t know them, apologies but you should have been in touch earlier. Those people who have been in touch will get an email with these details.

The Far Western Fells

Day 36 – Wednesday 29 April. Philip Bailey got up early and made an heroic drive to meet us near the Kinniside Stone Circle at Ennerdale Bridge. The heroic bit was the last five miles over the Cold Fell road which at that time of the morning is used as a rat-run by hundreds of Sellafield workers. How his wing mirrors survived we’ll never know!

Today was to be another long walk. After 15 sodden miles yesterday we were promised another 15 today, and were hoping that the rain would keep off. The early sunshine didn’t last long, and by the time we reached the summit of Grike (1596’) the chances of another soaking looked high. After the nearby Crag Fell (1710’) - where we congratulated ourselves on two summits before 10 am - and a brief encounter in the pine forest with a local training his Hound Dog (looks like a fox hound but they race over the fells. Nothing to do with, uh, Elvis as far as I know), we started a long, long plod, following a stone wall which runs all the way to Haycock and beyond. Not only is this wall taller and generally more massive than the average, it’s superbly built – months and months of hard work must have gone into it.

It’s nearly 3 miles to the top of Caw Fell (2288’) where it was feeling decidedly bleak and remote as we dined on tongue sandwiches, and a further mile to the highest point of the day and my last 2500-er, Haycock (2618’). The stony top was so cold and windy that there was no chance of lingering to admire the view.

We retraced our steps over Caw Fell and continued down the western ridge where it became clear that we would have a long descent (although the gradient was easy, the ground was surprisingly rough and bouldery, making progress slow) before our final ascent, to Lank Rigg. Worm Gill Beck was too big to cross, but just upstream was the confluence of three streams and by fording them (well, tippy-toeing over boulders) one at a time we managed to get across with dry feet. It was a steep slog up to the summit area but finally we were at the 1775’ trigpoint for the final top of the day.

A long walk out followed over easy ground; once back at the cars we had to contend with the Sellafield traffic in the opposite direction before reaching the safer main roads and a long journey home for a final day off. The rain had held off and today’s 5 brought the total to 206, with 8 to go. But the weather forecast doesn’t look good…

Photos: 1. Ennerdale Water, Pillar and Steeple from the summit of Grike, where 2. Mike and Philip pose for the camera; 3. Lonely Caw Fell with Red Pike (Buttermere) behind; 4. Lank Rigg, included because I wouldn't be surprised if no-one has bothered to take a photo of it before.

Small Earthquake in Lakeland – No Casualties Reported

Ulverston was the epicentre of an earthquake at 11.22 am on Tuesday, measuring 3.7 on the Richter Scale. Rumours that this was caused when I jumped for joy on Kentmere Pike, having completed fell number 200, are completely unfounded, as I didn’t reach the summit until about 3 pm. However, one of Mike’s Scotch Eggs fell out of his rucksack and rolled down the side of Froswick at about this time, and could well have started the whole thing off when it reached the bottom.

You Can’t Get Wetter Than A Kentmere Walker…

Day 35 – Tuesday 28 April. Today’s agenda was an extended Kentmere Horseshoe – the usual eight tops plus Gray Crag and High Street for good measure. Joining us was Anne Sweeney from the Rosemere Cancer Foundation. Anne is a keen runner, doing marathons and other long-distance races, and seemed a little puzzled when I said the 14½ mile round would take around seven hours: I think she was expecting to run round in under two hours!

The first hour’s climb to the summit of Yoke (2309’) was easy going and the weather was grey and cloudy. This was very definitely the best the weather would be all day. A few spots of rain arrived as someone kindly took a picture of the three of us displaying a Rosemere T-shirt at the top.

As the rain set in we tramped over Ill Bell (2476’) and Froswick (2359’), getting gradually wetter. By Thornthwaite Crag (2569’) with its massive summit cairn (more like an obelisk) it was beginning to truly lash it down. Anne, used to being out in such conditions but not for so long, was putting on a brave face but must have been wishing she’d chosen a different day.

We had to do a two mile there-and-back detour to get Gray Crag (2286’) – it’s on quite a narrow ridge and I guess the views are quite good when you can see them – all we got was mist and cloud. It stopped raining. For ten minutes, then started again even more heavily and from this point on it never stopped. Tramping along the old Roman Road to High Street (2718’) I couldn’t help thinking that the weather must have been much warmer two thousand years ago, otherwise the Romans wouldn’t have bothered. Global warming?

From Mardale Ill Bell (2496’) there’s a long drop to Nan Bield Pass, where three ladies thought we must be fit young men. Well, you can’t see anything when your glasses are covered in rain. I never cease to be amazed at the number of people wearing shorts in these conditions. Swimming trunks would be OK if it were 20° (C) warmer.

A stiff climb followed to Harter Fell (2539’) followed by a route march (Get us off this hill!) over Kentmere Pike (2397’) – number 200!! - and Shipman Knotts (1926’) before we arrived back at the car like three drowned rats. At least we had the consolation that 10 more were in the back and only 13 left to do!!

Photos: 1. Me, Mike and Anne Sweeney from the Rosemere Cancer Foundation, Yoke Summit; 2. Froswick from Ill Bell; 3. Mike prepares to read a sermon at High Street summit; 4. Harter Fell - how much wetter can it get?

The Final Day

There’s still some uncertainty about this as the weather forecast for the coming week isn’t promising, but I’ll do my best to stick to the ‘plan’. I know quite a few people want to come on Saturday, with some doing the full walk consisting of three tops, 7½ miles and about 2000’ of ascent, whilst others may wish to join near Skelwith Bridge and just do Loughrigg, which will halve the amount of climbing and give a walk of around 3 miles assuming, naturally, that either option will end in Elterwater, where a visit to The Britannia would be as inevitable as … well, er, increases in taxation. There is a third option, to pick up the walk near High Arnside, thereby including Black Fell but missing out Holme Fell.

Full details, including starting/meeting points and timing, will be posted on this Blog on Thursday 30 April, so please check here first, as I can’t guarantee that you’ll be able to contact me by phone. Please DO NOT set off without checking, in case the schedule has been changed for whatever reason.

The start time will be accurate but times of any rendezvous (e.g. Skelwith Bridge) must of course be approximate. PLEASE let me know either by email or placing a comment on the Blog, if you intend to come so I can have an idea of numbers. This is very important. IF YOU DON'T LET ME KNOW YOU'RE COMING, I CAN'T LET YOU KNOW IF IT'S POSTPONED. There are a few other rules:

You must:

1. Make a donation to the Rosemere Cancer Foundation if you haven’t already done so (many people have of course, thank you!);
2. Be fit enough to complete the walk or section that you choose (but we won’t be going fast, don’t worry);
3. Bring suitable clothing and be able to get back to your car if you have to cut your walk short for any reason;
4. Be at the start or rendezvous in plenty of time, because we will absolutely not wait for late-comers.

Keep your fingers crossed for good weather this week and Saturday!

A High Level Tour of Wastwater

Day 34 – Sunday 26 April. With Mike back in Clitheroe, Ian Hardy came up once again to join the walk, which today was to start with a ‘promenade’ over the top of what has been voted the Best View in England – the screes of Wastwater, which plunge precipitously into the deepest lake in England.

On the ascent to Whin Rigg (the peak at the south end of the screes) the views aren’t as good as you might think, with much of the lake obscured by the shoulder of the fell, and at the 1755’ top there was still a bit of cloud, but this soon cleared. The walk along the edge of the screes is one of extreme contrast – grassy moorland to the right, fearsome drops and rock cliffs to the left, with superb longer distance views too, across to Yewbarrow, Pillar, Kirk Fell and Great Gable. At one point a promontory gives the most vertiginous views, enough to make you nervous as if standing on a cornice. You wouldn’t want a 7.5 earthquake to come along while you were standing there!

After 1½ miles the higher top of Illgill Head is reached at 1983’ after which there is a delightful grassy descent to Brackenclose and the north end of the lake. To save over two miles of boring road-walking we took the car to Greendale (Postman Pat was nowhere to be seen). Passing an ice-cream van at the Nether Wasdale junction we promised ourselves one when we got back, and set off up the slopes of Middle Fell (1908’), which has superb views of the Scafells and Mickledore from the top.

Across a marshy saddle and up heart-poundingly steep slopes to the flat grassy top of Seatallan (2266’) – feeling more like a Pennine moor than a Lakeland mountain, where the views now included the Ravenglass and the coast. Which reminded me that earlier in the morning the Sellafield nuclear plant was bathed in its own little area of sunshine whilst everything else was in shade, which looked rather eerie! The big Calder Hall globe has gone now, so what with this and the demise of the Clitheroe Cement Works chimney, what’s happening to all our industrial monuments? Should more be Listed?

It’s nearly all an easy downhill stroll to the craggy top of Buckbarrow, at 1410’ the top of an impressive rock escarpment facing the Screes. Anticipation was growing as we returned to the car but then … the ice-cream van had gone! And not even 4.30 pm! So there was nothing for it but to head for home and get a cool pint of milk from the filling station at Greenodd.

I managed to take some photos on my phone, so I hope the quality is OK. 1. From the top of the Wastwater Screes; 2. Ditto; 3. The Scafells and Mickledore (that's the gap like a missing tooth) from Middle Fell; 4. Mr Hardy at the summit of Middle Fell, looking very happy because he should really have been painting the pergola.

Thunder In The Hills!

Day 33 – Saturday 25 April. Seathwaite, at the southern end of Borrowdale, is a favourite place for walkers to start the ascent of Scafell Pike, and you’d better get there early if you want to find a parking space. From Cockermouth we took the scenic route past Crummock Water and Buttermere, and left a car at the National Trust car park in Seatoller: there was an NT person at the car park trying to persuade people to join and save the parking fee. Talk about being in the wrong job - this Happy Harry would have had no trouble passing the interview for the Gestapo.

It was sunny but the wind was strong. We followed the crowds for a while over Stockley Beck, but then left the main path to head up for the summit of Seathwaite Fell (1970’) – something fewer than 1 in 500 do, I would guess, as there is only the merest hint of a path. At a short rock pitch in the gulley we were following, I stretched on to a projecting piece of rock and just at the worst moment it broke off, giving me a jolt and a grazed elbow.

From the windy summit we turned south, past Sprinkling Tarn, to rejoin the pedestrian motorway, where the hordes streamed along in every garb imaginable, including T-shirt, shorts, and no sign of spare clothing. Considering the weather forecast gave thundery showers pm, one wondered…

At 2984’, Great End is the highest Lakeland mountain under 3000’, but it didn’t seem to take long to reach the top – in fact it took almost as long to decide which of the three cairned mounds was the top! Satisfied, we headed on down, and whilst having a bite to eat I looked across at nearby Esk Pike and suggested we should do it today rather than next Friday after Bowfell. The logic was that a match won is better than a game in hand, as you never know what might happen. On the other hand, if we took the time to go up, it would probably rain before we got back, but if we didn’t do it, it would be fine all afternoon and we’d regret the decision. Head or tails? Heads.

So we took what turned out to be an interesting path up to the top on what turned out to be only a 45-minute add-on. As we were standing on the rocky 2903’ summit, who should appear but Roger Spensley from Clitheroe, out on a solo walking day, getting away from the stresses of work and organising the forthcoming Round Table National Sporing Weekend! So after the usual pleasantries we walked down to Esk Hause together and started the short climb to Allen Crags (2572’).

It was at this point that a few spots of rain appeared, and as the view down the Langdale Valley opened up, it looked very black indeed. On with waterproofs. By the summit it was hailing heavily, with flashes of lightning and long crashes of thunder. Roger left to head back to the Old Dungeon Ghyll; we carried on towards Glaramara as it got worse and worse.

At one point we sheltered behind a large boulder until the lightning passed over to our other side. Last night I’d discovered my first blister so had started the day in my lighter summer boots, which aren’t waterprof, so of course by now my feet were sodden. We met a couple emerging from a storm shelter that they carried with them – I bet there weren’t too many of those on the fells today! It’ll probably be another twenty years before they use it again!

The route to Glaramara (2560’) seems never ending, with lots of ups and downs, but if you think that’s bad, wait till you try to get to Rosthwaite Fell (Bessyboot). 1¾ miles of absolute torture, over undulating, craggy, sometimes boggy ground, with no line of sight and some of the most difficult navigation of the 214. The heavy showers came and went, but it must have taken over 1½ hours to cover the distance, and I was getting a bit of earache about Esk Pike as Mike wanted to get back to Clitheroe this evening! We finally reached the 1807’ summit in sunshine and the fine weather continued as we made our way down to Seatoller. The ground was slippery though, and I had one slip resulting in a heavy bum-landing. Fortunately the Gestapo had left the car park as we reflected on an eventful day with another six tops done – total 186, 28 to go. Getting nearer…

Photos: 1. The bridge over Stockley Beck; 2. Summit of Seathwaite Fell; 3. Sprinkling Tarn and Great End; 4. Tarn at Leaves from Rosthwaite Fell.

Ups and Downs in the Green Rolling Hills of Wythop

Day 32 – Friday 24 April. I should have mentioned that Slight Side, Wednesday’s last top, was Mike’s 100th top on this walk. It clearly had no effect on inspiring a quiz win against Fleetwood but a great milestone nevertheless!

What looks like an easy day often turns out not to be so, and this was a typical example. None of the North Western fells in the area North of Whinlatter Pass and West of Bassenthwaite is all that high – Lord’s Seat is top of the list at 1811’ – but most of them stand alone and so a good deal of height needs to be gained per top. Still, the soft grassy and heathery tops made a nice change after the harsh rocky environments of Wasdale - Scafell, Great Gable and the like.

Starting from the Forestry Commission centre at Whinlatter, where Siskins were enjoying the massive birdseed feeders, we were unsure of the route to the top of our first fell, Whinlatter (1696’). As a rule, men never ask directions, but I learnt a few years ago that this is a big disadvantage and learnt to be brave and ask. So although the Centre was closed, there was a man just getting out of his car to walk his dog, looking for all the world like this was a daily routine, and it turned out that he knew the area well. So with confident directions we headed through the woods, past all the signs about Red Squirrels, and were at the top within 35 minutes.

We dropped down from the summit to forest tracks which I may well have travelled along at high speed when competing on the RAC Rally many years ago. Today was slower but hardly less leisurely as we pressed on towards the very steep finish to Graystones (1476’). Down again to a marshy valley and up through thick heather to the top of the aptly named Ling Fell (1224’). It’s usually at around this point that I start thinking we could be finished before 3 o’clock, but somehow it never works out this way!

Down to the public road near Beck Wythop, which I have also travelled along before, but this time on two wheels on the C2C cycle route with Val, and up to the long top of Sale Fell (1170’), before a long trek through green fields with newly-arrived Swallows flitting around farm buildiings, before the much longer climb up to Broom Fell, where at 1670’ someone has gone to a lot of trouble to build a massive stone cairn to BS1685 (Cairns and other Stone Monuments, amended 1991). Was that a Cuckoo I heard? Before writing to The Times, we carried along the ridge to the highest point of the day, Lord’s Seat, at 1811’.

Now don’t laugh, but the final top of the day was Barf. Now this might sound like something out of Monty Python, or a euphemism for various functions which this Blog is far too genteel to mention, but at 1536’ this is quite a fine hill with a grand façade overlooking The Swan Hotel at Thornthwaite. Or what used to be The Swan, as it now seems to be closed. The steep descent, past the white-painted ‘Bishop of Barf’ (definitely not a euphemism) was hard on the knees, and with the Royal Oak at Braithwaite only a couple of miles away it would have been a crime not to go in and see whether Allan Boardman’s friends were there after their regular Friday walk. Shock Horror, when we arrived they weren’t there. But after only two minutes they’d arrived, after a day in the Langdales, so normality was resumed.

180 down, 34 to go. Will the weather hold? Will the knees keep going?

We returned to Allan and Sandra’s in Cockermouth, where we have been billeted in fine style recently, and took them out for a meal at the Royal Yew (not the same as the ‘Royal We’) at Dean (very nice) followed by a visit to the incomparable Black Cock (‘Annies’) at Eaglesfield: the Landlady (Annie, of course) is 85 and has been running the pub for sixty, yes SIXTY years. One small bar, a fireplace (newly cleared of nesting Jackdaw) and outside toilet, just like a real pub ought to be. But better not drink too much, we’ve a hard day tomorrow including the England’s highest mountain under 3,000’.

Photos: (at last!) 1. Yours truly at the summit of Whinlatter, Grisedale Pike and Hopegill Head in the background; 2. Ling Fell; 3. Naked tree roots; 4. Barf from Lord's Seat.

Scafell Pike and Neighbours

Day 31 – Wednesday 22 April – saw us back at Wasdale Head, this time joined by good friends James and Jill Alpe. The forecast had promised warm sunny weather: our guests arrived in shorts and I had mine ready to put on – but this is the Lake District. The skies were grey and the breeze had a chill bite to it.

After a night on top of a radiator my camera started to work again but it didn’t last long, telling me that the battery was flat. I suspect that the water which got into the works had dried out but that the battery had been damaged too. I have a spare which will hopefully resolve the problem, but unfortunately today is another day with a shortage of pictures.

It’s a straightforward long climb up to the summit of Lingmell (2649’), a satellite on the side of Scafell Pike: I think Jill must be better suited to fell running as she soon disappeared into the distance. After enjoying the views we continued up the rough stony track to the even rougher stonier summit of Scafell Pike, at 3210’ the highest mountain in England. I doubt whether the summit is ever clear of people in daylight hours, and as expected there were about half a dozen walkers there when we arrived. Scafell, the ‘twin’ peak, can be seen nearby, looking for all the world like it’s no problem getting from one to the other. Nothing could be further from the truth: Wainwright describes the trek from Scafell Pike to Scafell as ‘a walk not to be undertaken lightly (true) – medals have been won for lesser deeds (a bit of exaggeration perhaps)’.

A rocky descent to Mickledore ridge is followed by a short, attractive ridge; just before the great rock wall of Scafell Crag is reached, the rough path is followed downhill until one feels one must nearly have reached sea level again. From here a steep gully is followed back up to the puddle which is flatteringly known as Foxes Tarn. Further steep, slippery slopes follow until eventually the rocky summit is reached at 3162’.

After a quick bite we set off for the final top, Slight Side (2499’), a mere protruberance on Scafell’s south ridge, but a fine rocky top nevertheless. The wind was now bringing in a mist which reduced visibility, but it only affected the tops and once we started to descend we were back in bright conditions again. It was quite a long, grassy walk back to Wasdale Head, but we were finished before 3 pm – giving us time to get home and snatch a bite to eat before going to Fleetwood for the semi-final of the Rotary District Quiz, where we were totally outclassed by an excellent team. It had been a long day!

Photos (taken before the camera packed up again! 1. Wastwater and the Screes; 2. Great Gable overlooking the head of Wastwater; 3. The only Alpes in the Lake District (plus Mike) at the summit of Lingmell; 4. Looking to Sty Head Tarn and Borrowdale from Lingmell.

Rain, Wind and a Pea-Souper on Pillar

Day 30 – Tuesday 21 April – and while everyone in Clitheroe enjoyed another warm sunny day, the weather in Cumbria turned decidedly nasty. With Mike, and joined once again by Ian Hardy, we started from Wasdale Head: having done Kirk Fell yesterday we were confident of making good progress and would hopefully take in Haycock as well. But the weather deteriorated as we climbed the long path up to Black Sail Pass, and the few other walkers were clearly staying to lower ground and avoiding the tops.

Once on the ridge towards Pillar (2927’) visibility dropped and the wind and rain set in with a vengeance. We plodded on with a distinct lack of joie-de-vivre, eventually reaching the summit in a well-moistened state. Extreme care was now required as the mist was so thick it wasn’t possible to see more than about 25 yards. We found the way off towards Scoat Fell, which involves quite a descent before rising again over Black Crag. Having made one error (drifting too much to the north) we retraced footsteps and got it right, then picked up the stone wall which acts as a guide to the summit at 2760’.

By now I was getting very cold but managed to get some more layers on, and we stopped in the shelter of the wall for something to eat. Steeple (2687’) is a spectacular top reached along a very narrow arete with big drops off on either side. Not a place to get lost in mist, but we found it without problem, meeting the only other (solitary) walker to be seen on the tops all day – and I thought we were mad!

Back to Scoat Fell we decided not even to attempt the walk to Haycock in these conditions, then took a bearing for Red Pike (2707’). After a while we still had not encountered the path so for the first time we got out the GPS for a quick fix (the map reference kind, no artificial stimulants for us!) which helped us find the path almost straight away. The summit is a little way off the main path, perched right on the very edge of the precipice – quite spectacular! The weather was just beginning to improve: up to this point I couldn’t be bothered to take any photos but now I took out the camera only to find it was wet through and, after taking a couple of very blurred pictures it gave up the ghost altogether and refused to work for the rest of the day. What a disaster!

The clouds cleared a bit and we had a bite to eat before surveying the vast bulk of Yewbarrow, today’s last top at 2058’, involving a long descent and then a big climb of 800’ back to the craggy top. With spirits not exactly high it seemed a long hard slog to the top, but then the sun came out and the descent, a steep, steep affair between rock pillars and down scree gulleys, finished off the day nicely. Well actually a pint of Wasdale’s finest Pale Ale in the Wasdale Head was what really finished off the day nicely.

As we left Wasdale, hoping for a brighter day tomorrow, the first Swallows of the year were flying around. Total to date (tops, not Swallows) -169.

Photos: 1. Old packhorse bridge at Wasdale Head; 2. Bill and Mike, News at Ten, the summit of Pillar, cold, wet, fed up... 3. The best my camera could manage after the rain; 4. Yewbarrow from the shores of Wastwater.

Dropping Clangers in Borrowdale

Day 29 – 20 April, and another glorious day with lots of cars already parked at Seathwaite by 9.00. I was walking on my own and the plan was to do Grey Knotts, Brandreth, Great Gable, Breen Gable and Base Brown. Easy=peasy. But one can get over-confident... First of all I looked at Base Brown and thought it was Grey Knotts, so ended up going ¼ mile out of my way after reaching the fell top before realising my mistake. Half a mile, 250’ of ascent and maybe half an hour wasted, so no big deal. Climbing the fell side there were interesting old mine shafts, spoil heaps, and for birdwatchers, Redstarts and Tree Pipits.

Finally, after skirting Raven Crag, I arrived at the summit of Grey Knotts (2287’) and had a quick look at Mr Wainwright’s book. Much too quick a look. I set off in the right direction and went straight past the top of Brandreth (2344’) without realising it, went downhill a bit and then back up, on auto-pilot, and before I knew it I was at the top of... Green Gable, which I wasn’t due to do until after Great Gable. Two problems – I didn’t know if I’d actually visited the summit of Brandreth, and I would still have to revisit Green Gable after Great Gable as there was no way of altering the route without missing out Base Brown. Aaaghh!! So I retraced steps to Brandreth (which I had visited, just never noticed) and then cut across to get on the lovely pony trail of Moses Trod after wasting another two miles and probably 700’ of ascent.

Kirk Fell looked very close and I thought it would save time off tomorrow’s Mosedale Horseshoe if I were to do it today, so I did. It’s a steep pull up from the col and then a long trek over the top to the summit at 2630’, after which I had to go all the way back to the col again before the even bigger ascent to the very stony top of Great Gable, a monster at 2949’ looking in every respect and from every angle like a real mountain. After that it was a steep, rocky descent to Windy Gap (not at all windy today) and a five minute climb back for a large portion of déjà vu at Green Gable (2603’).
It was an easy stroll to the top of Base Brown (2120’) but not so easy a descent – it’s a really steep drop back down to Seathwaite and it looks spectacularly so, but I finally finished the day at 5.00, having run out of liquid (I’d taken plenty, but it was a warm sunny day) which I am, as I type, in the process of topping up. If you know what I mean. 164 down, 50 to go, Mosedale Horseshoe tomorrow.

Photos: 1. Yes, this really is Brandreth, with Great Gable in the background; 2. Buzzed by a Hercules; 3. A hazy Wastwater from Beck head; 4. Great Gable from the summit of Kirk Fell.

Changes to Provisional Itinerary

I've made a couple of changes this weekend, swapping the routes on Monday 20 April and Sunday 26 April, so tomorrow (20/4) will now be the Great Gable group with the Wastwater screes, Middle Fell etc on Sunday 26/4. I've put a few links on the Blog now so you should be able to download the up-to-date schedule quite easily.

If anyone is thinking of joining the walk on the last day (which hopefully will be Saturday 2 May but timings are still provisional depending on weather and other circumstances), whether for the full day or just the last fell (which despite what it says in the itinerary will be LOUGHRIGG), please either send me an email or leave a comment on this Blog entry.

I've been looking at the Wainwright Society's web site and it seems that (excluding fell-runners) up to now the shortest time taken to complete the 214 tops is 131 days. If all goes according to plan it will be a new shortest time of 55 days. Unless anyone knows different... (do let me know!)

It’s Friday, It Must Be Newlands

Day 28 – 17 April – looked like being a fairly big day. Ian Hardy was joining me again and we met near Hawse End just after 8.30 before taking a car to start at Newlands Hause. After last night’s weather forecast I had entertained thoughts of wearing shorts – what a good job I didn’t – it turned out to be grey with low cloud and an absolutely biting wind.

The summit of Robinson (2417’) was obscured by cloud as we set off, although the day seemed to have the promise of something better. Unusually, for a man who insisted on spending, not saving, time on the hill, AW says of this ascent “Try to do it under one hour” so at 55 minutes we emerged on the grey, windy summit with some credit.

The traverse to Hindscarth (2385’) continued the cold grey windy theme, so the lightly-clad lady with hairdo and no headwear seemed a little incongruous: she was the only person we saw, in contrast to later on. A few bright spells promised an improvement in the day as we chatted along. Ian asked whether I talk to myself when walking alone to which I had to answer ‘All the time’. (Doesn’t everybody? Or do I sense the approach of men in white coats? Is this all getting to me? Am I paranoid or does everybody have it in for me anyway?) Back to the blog…

Great views were now opening up to Fleetwith Pike and Buttermere as we made our way to the top of Dale Head (2473’) before the long drop down to Dalehead Tarns. The Newlands Round is for me one of the best in the Lake District, with stunning scenery all the way. Of course, what goes down must go back up again, which we did to reach High Spy (2143’) with another fine cairn at the summit.

On the left of the ridge, Eel Crags are steep and heather-clad, and a pair of Ring-Ousels put on a good show very close to us as we passed by. The path now resembles a motorway and the trippers from Keswick were out in droves. After Maiden Moor (1887’) came the delightful Catbells (1481’) where there were literally hundreds of people, some no doubt taken aback by the strength of the wind compared to the valley floor in Keswick. This was the end of the Newlands Round but not the end of the day for us. We got back to the car at Hawse End and drove around once again to Newlands Hause, now in bright, clear sunshine, but still high winds.

Leaving the rucksacks behind we made our way up to the ridge leading to Knott Rigg (1790’), an ascent of about 720’ from the Hause, and then on along the fine traverse, with great views of Wandope, Eel Crag (not the same as the Eel Crags just mentioned), Sail and Causey Pike, to Ard Crags (1860’) before retracing our steps back to the car to finish the day with another 8 tops, making a total of 158. Now for two days off (my right knee will appreciate that) before an assault on Wasdale next week.

Photos: 1. Robinson from Newlands Hause first thing - compare with photo 4; 2. Looking back to Robinson and Hindscarth; 3. Catbells from Maiden Moor; 4. Robinson in glorious sunshine from Newlands Hause, 3 pm.

Lovely Loweswater

Day 27 – 16 April 2009. After a comfortable night at Allan & Sandra’s house near Cockermouth I could afford a leisurely start on this fine but breezy day. It wasn’t far to Loweswater, home of the famous Kirkstile Inn: I parked a mile or so from the village at the NT car park near the lake, then walked back along the lanes, where the spring flowers were putting on a show, past the Inn and the only road sign I’ve ever seen whose directions are totally negative (see photo).

Mellbreak (1676’) stands completely alone, shoulder-to-shoulder with no-one, overlooking Crummock Water, and is one steep climb, I can tell you. After reaching the lower north top it’s nearly a mile (with a fair descent and ascent) to to reach the higher south top. To reach Hen Comb (1661’), the next objective, it’s necessary to descend steeply all the way down to the valley floor, cross Mosedale Beck (no bridge) and climb all the way back up again. Phew! So it was just after 12 o’clock and I’d only done two fells.

However, after this it was a lot easier, with less of a drop – to a marshy saddle - before the gentle rise to the summit of Gavel Fell (1720’), where I met Mark Richards who writes walking guides under the Cicerone banner and was researching for his latest publication. You can find out all about him on www.markrichards.info – he said he’d already met someone who was trying to do all the Wainwrights in three months (this made me feel better than the news received from my brother today that a 5-year old has now completed them. All it needs now is for a pregnant enthusiast to do them in under nine months to claim the prize for the first foetus and put it beyond everyone else’s reach. What would AW think?)

Easy walking, interrupted by lunch (beef sandwich, plum and chocolate bar, chicken & leek Cup-a-Soup) led to today’s highest point, Blake Fell (1878’) and then the rather strange choice (by AW) of Burnbank Fell, a rather anonymous looking bulge at 1580’ which looks very plain indeed compared to its altogether more handsome neighbour, Carling Knott.

At the end of the walk is a lovely path slanting through woodland, where a lady had only just finished attending to a call of nature as I happened along – hope I didn’t cause any embarrassment ma’am! Back at the car by just after 3 pm the pull of the Kirkstile Inn was too strong, so I popped in for a quick pint of very refreshing Mellbreak Bitter before exploring the by-ways back to my lodgings.

That’s 150 then. I don’t seem to be able to coincide the important numbers with impressive fells – no 1 was Great Mell Fell, 50 – Calf Crag (OK I suppose), 100 – Whether Hill (just a lump really) and now 150 – Burnbank Fell (definitely just a lump!). Wait and see what comes up at 200, but don’t hold your breath.

Photos: 1. Spring violets near Loweswater; 2. The road to nowhere? 3. Mellbreak; 4. Hen Comb from Mellbreak.