Tuesday 31 March 2009
If at first you don't succeed...
Wednesday 25 March 2009
Blown off Course?
I hadn’t planned on Mike though. “What about doing Lingmoor Fell? That way it shortens the last day and if anyone wants to join you, then they won’t have to walk the full 14 miles.” Great Mike, OK, we’ll do that. “We could do Pike o’Blisco as well, that would shorten the Head of Langdale route” I agreed to Lingmoor Fell but vetoed Pike o’Blisco. I need that day off!
So off we set to the Blea Tarn road where we parked the car and set off by Side Pike, and were on the summit of Lingmoor Fell (1530’) in 45 minutes (I felt a lot better this morning!). A lot of heather had been burnt recently and the overnight rain seemed to bring out the acrid smell which caught the back of your throat. It certainly was windy, but we avoided the showers and the air was crystal clear, with great views of the Coniston Fells, the Crinkles, Bowfell and the Langdales.
On the return we were blown down the steep slope from Side Pike so fast our legs could hardly keep up! Back at the car we found it surrounded by Mountain Goat minibuses whose Japanese tourists were taking photos at a fantastic rate of knots, without at any time straying more than 10 yards from the safety of the minibus. Further down towards the Dungeon Ghyll, in the midst of all this impressive scenery, a man was busy taking photos… of his black BMW.
And so, adding only one top to the overall tally, it’s off home to have a long weekend’s rest.
PS. On arrival at home there’s a letter from Darwen Probus saying how much they are looking forward to me giving them a talk. On Thursday 26 March. I can’t remember them asking me to talk to them, and it’s not in my diary. One of us must have had an diary malfunction, but as I’m home, I might as well go! They’d better all stay awake!
PPS. 26/3/09. Definitely my diary malfunction, as the speakers' convenor for Darwen Probus knew that I donate the speaker's fee to The Christie Hospital, so he must have spoken to me at some stage. What a big club, about 60 members all of whom seemed to enjoy the talk. Better not criticise the 'old' men of Probus if I can't even remember an appointment...!
Where Eagles Dare
Eagle Crag, even though only about 1650’, is described as perhaps the steepest and most strenuous climb of all the Wainwrights, and that’s no exaggeration. The whole face is exceptionlly steep and covered in crags, and it takes a lot of effort, plus a certain amount of navigation, to pick one’s way to the top. We started on the Langstrath side, away from Wainwright’s starting point, and eventually (about ¾ way up) met up with a well-trodden path to the top. Time for a brew and a sandwich to restore energy levels.
Sergeant’s Crag (1873’) is nearby and easily reached. It has a great view of Pike o’Stickle just sticking up above the distant horizon. Then it was a trek across to Greenup Edge and on to the long and gently rising fell that leads to Ullscarf (2370’). This featureless trudge wasn’t improved by the arrival of light snow, followed by more persistent rain. Having arrived at the highest point of the day, we thought the rest would be fairly easy. Ha!
From Ullscarf we followed the ridge down (mainly) over the little lumps of High Saddle and Low Saddle, and then hit bog with a vengeance. Route finding was tricky, and even when we could see where we wanted to get to, picking a route was another matter. Eventually we arrived at the jewel-like Dock Tarn, skirted it and made our way up to Great Crag (1500’), then set off for the final fell of the day, Grange Fell (1363’). By now it was beginning to pee down, although thankfully visibility was OK.
We crossed the Watendlath bridleway and found the top of the fell easily enough. All that was left was to descend to Grange in Borrowdale. We skirted Royal How, a well-quarried little fell, and then headed downhill on a good footpath. After losing a lot of height, this path suddenly arrived at the top of a huge crag, perhaps 800’ above the road. The path looked perilous and the rocks were slippery. Time to ask some Health & Safety questions: 1: Would you like to retrace your steps, climbing all that way back up again to the last path junction (No thank you). 2: Would you like to find the very fast and short way down the crag and end up dead at the bottom? (Definitely no thank you very much).
So, grumbling, miserable, wet through, we set off back. The correct path was found by turning off Royal How in what appeared to be the wrong direction for 50 yards: this led to a very steep stone-pitched path through trees, which was wet through and as slippery as ice in places, so plenty of care was still required. But eventually we reached the car looking like two drowned rats and headed back to Bowness for the night.
68 Wainwrights done – over 30% - and 146 to go. And every single top done in Wainwright's Central Fells (Book Three). But tomorrow looks like gales again…
Those Equinoctal Gales!
Leaving Glenridding along the Greenside Road I passed a group of youngsters emerging from a minibus from Essex Boys’ Club. They intended to go up to Red Tarn, but I noticed most of them were girls. Presumably the boys were all back in Essex doing ballet or embroidery. (Oops – not very PC! Any objections can be sent with a donation please).
It’s a short steep climb to Glenridding Dodd, then a return to the col and a further trek up to Sheffield Pike (2232'), stung by a heavy hail shower. I’d been in the lee of the wind most of the time, but at the top I could hardly stand up (I hadn’t been drinking, it was the high wind). I nearly called it a day there and then, but thought “I’ll just try one more” and set off for Hart Side (2481') via Nick Head. Once on the exposed fell top, above around 2400’, the wind was so fierce I could hardly stand, and it was made worse by gusting, so that just as I got myself stabilised an even bigger gust would come along and blow me backwards six or ten feet before I could get a grip again.
In between all this, I did notice a good view to the North (it was now very clear) of our first two fells, Great Mell and Little Mell. But now it was decision time. To do the intended route meant coming down Swirral Edge to Catsty Cam. Admittedly not as dangerous as Striding Edge but even so, by the time I got there the wind would have made me a lot more tired, and being blown off Swirral Edge would have probably terminated the project by terminating me. So I decided to call it a day and retraced my steps back to Nick Head and from there to Glenridding. I later found out that there was still enough lying snow left on Swirral Edge to be a danger in itself, so in hindsight this was a good decision.
Back at the car I looked at the map, saw that Arnison Crag (1424'), above Patterdale, was pretty accessible and might be the annoying last straw on the Helvellyn/ St Sunday Crag walk later on, so decided to walk up behind the Patterdale Hotel and ‘knock it off’. It’s quite a steep climb but took just an hour. From the summit, the views of Ullswater and Place Fell are superb, but if anything the wind was even stronger.
Disappointing, but at least I got something out of the day, and the return to Catsty Cam should be made easier by a simple walk up to Sticks Pass to pick up the remainder of the walk.
Sunday 22 March 2009
Bogs, Forests and Castles
Raven Crag itself was then easy to attain, after a short stiff climb, and gave tremendous views over Thirlmere, towering as it does at the top of a sheer rock cliff. Appropriately, two Ravens flew over as we arrived. We retraced our steps to the gate and then slogged up the slope to High Seat (1995’), followed by another boggy trudge for a mile to the top of Bleaberry Fell (1932’). Here we met a couple from Carlisle and got talking about our project to do all 214 Wainwrights to raise money for the Rosemere Cancer Foundation. It turned out that the lady was diagnosed with Breast Cancer seven years ago and is currently doing fine. It just shows (again) what a small world this is, and how easy it is to find something in common with someone you’ve never met before.
I thought Walla Crag (1234’), above Keswick, was going to be the last top of the day, but Mike suggested doing Castle Crag (Grange-in-Borrowdale) to shorten one of the forthcoming walks. But he also wanted to get back to watch the rugby! I knew he’d done Castle Crag only two months earlier so sent him off home to watch the rugby whilst I did it on my own. It’s a little gem, the lowest of the Wainwrights and the only one under 1000’ (it’s about 985’), with an odd approach of steep paths over slate quarry waste, and a small flat top with trees and a War Memorial, complete with plaque and poppy wreath.
Would it be the Lion, the Lamb… and the Chicken?
In cool, cloudy conditions we were soon on top of Steel Fell (1811’) but unable to see much. Then it’s an easy path to Calf Crag (1762’) where the weather began to clear. When this happens it always seems to happen quickly, and within a few minutes we were bathed in sunshine, looking down on RAF jet fighters doing their training runs. They may be disturbing the peace but they’re always spectacular.
It being Friday, there were plenty of walkers about, taking advantage of the glorious weather. The ridge walk to Gibson Knott (1379’) gave us chance to have a look across at Tarn Crag, which we did the previous Sunday, and at Steel Fell which we were unable to see much of a couple of hours earlier.
Then it was on to the final top, Helm Crag (1299’): viewed from the road this has a striking top – a 25’ high rock outcrop - often called ‘The Howitzer’ - which Wainwright describes as “brought underfoot only by precarious manoeuvres of the body”. I’ve been up Helm Crag before but I’ve never climbed to the very top: this time was different, however, as I’m honour-bound so to do. I can inform readers that the rock-climbing involved to reach the pinnacle is not all that difficult. Getting back down again is a very different matter, and had me worried a couple of times! That's me at the top. The other fella is not connected with any mountain rescue organisation.
Thursday 19 March 2009
Day 8 – 19 March and the Heat Wave continues in Martindale
A long walk along the ridge followed, accompanied by Ravens much of the way, to Angletarn Pikes (1857’), which are easily seen from yesterday’s start point of Hartsop even though it’s half an hour’s drive away. A quick circuit of Angle Tarn to Brock Crags (1842’) was followed by a promenade along the most delightful path above Patterdale, as far as Boardale Hause, from where the track rose again to Place Fell (2154’). There were lots of people around now, including a school party and A group of soldiers with Army Benevolent Fund T-shirts. Nearly all of them had i-pods sticking in their ears, and I’m not talking about the school party.
Once back at the car after traversing the Place Fell Ridge, I left the rucksack behind and walked briskly up and down Hallin Fell (1271’) in a 30-minute dash, rewarded by outstanding views of Ullswater. When I got back to the car a couple came walking by with two dogs and a green parrot on a perch. I kid you not.
Sorry this is a bit rushed, but I don’t get a day off tomorrow or Saturday, so I’m posting this when I should be in bed. But by my reckoning that’s 48 tops done and tomorrow I should break the 30,000’ barrier which means more than one Mount Everest. Mustn’t forget the sun-cream.
Day 7 - Sunburn? In March?
From the other side of the road a pitched path strikes almost vertically up the face of Red Screes, rising 850’ in hardly any horizontal distance to the summit at 2541’. It was hard work but near the top I popped out of the cloud into bright blue skies again, which were to stay with me for the rest of the day.
From the summit it was down to Middle Dodd (2106’) and then back to the ridge at the Scandale Pass, then to Little Hart Crag (2091’) and down the next ridge to High Hartsop Dodd (1702’) where the cairn consisted of three stones! That was a drop of nearly 400’ and I had to tramp all the way back up again before attempting to go ‘across country’ beneath the imposing rock face of Dove Crag. This was really hard work – no path, and lots of crags, forcing about turns and unwelcome descents. I passed a tiny pond full of frogs and, being ready for a rest, waited motionless for five minutes so I could take a photo of them,
Eventually I reached the ruined shelter on the Dove Crag track and struck across to reach the Hartsop above How ridge, gaining another 800’ in the process, then enjoying a nice sunny yomp down the ridge, over Hartsop How, the last top of the day at 1870’.
The descent to Cow Bridge was really steep at times but eventually I got back to the car. People in Hartsop village were sitting out on their patios – in March! Surely Margaret must be pulling some strings big-time with whoever is controlling the weather!
A big day – 13 miles and over 5,000’ of ascent, and another long day tomorrow...
Tuesday 17 March 2009
Alone again, naturally…
It was a straightforward trek to Sallows (1691’), at the top of which is a tiny tumulus-like mound, so there was no doubt that I was in the right place there. This was the highest point of the day and it was only 10.30. But progress was to be slowed by the fact that much of the rest of the day was pathless, across rough ground, although by now the clouds were beginning to lift off the fell-tops.
At 1191’, Troutbeck Tongue is the lowest fell in AW’s book of Far Eastern Fells (Book 2) but what it lacks in height it makes up for in steepness of ascent. 500’ of seemingly near-vertical, lung-bursting effort, but at least it’s soon over and the view to Windermere is worth it. Then back down to the unfriendly-looking Troutbeck Park Farm (no visitors thank you) and up to Low Kingate, an old cart track that presumably pre-dates the Kirkstone Pass road, running parallel to it at a distance of only 100 yds or so.
After joining the modern road, the route to Wansfell (1597’) is a long dreary trudge. The top itself isn’t that exciting but it is followed by a very pleasant mile-long switchback of a ridge leading to Wansfell Pike, often mistakenly thought of as the highest point on the fell, and enjoying great views of Windermere and Ambleside. From here it was an easy trek down to Nanny Lane and Troutbeck to end another day.
Monday 16 March 2009
A Perfect 10!
It’s a long trek along the ridge to Blea Rigg (1776’), a shy top which doesn’t tower over any neighbours and so it can be a bit difficult to be sure when you’ve got there, but AW’s guide helps sort it out. The weather had encouraged plenty of Sunday walkers to take to the fells, which were beginning to get crowded!
After a lunch stop (John & Catherine like to have plenty of re-fuelling stops) we pressed on to the summit of Pavey Ark (2288’), perched on the edge of a 500’ crag above Stickle Tarn – not a place to be if you suffer from acrophobia. After a slow start we were now ticking off tops at a lively pace – Harrison Stickle, at 2403’ the highest of the Langdale Pikes, but not the highest point of the day, then Loft Crag (2270’) and then the impressive Holland’s Pie pudding shape of Pike o’Stickle (2323’). It was getting towards 3 o’clock and we still had plenty to do.
Off to the rather unimpressive Thunacar Knott (2351’) wondering why AW bothered to include it in his guides, and then finally the highest point of the day (though not necessarily the high point…), High Raise (2500’).
It’s a long trek down Sourmilk Gill (very scenic though) and beyond to get back to Grasmere – but finally we were back at the car saying our goodbyes. It was a long day at 14 miles+, but an excellent one, and after a good meal I didn’t need any rocking to get to sleep. That’s 31 down and I daren’t think how many still to go. Just keep putting one foot down after the other.
Now this takes the biscuit!
Ella, Luke and a satisfied customer
Friday 13 March 2009
Friday the Thirteenth…?
So today saw us setting off from home at 8.00 to climb five tops in the St John’s Vale area – on the itinerary as Day 12. Well, I said the schedule would be subject to change!
As we were getting our boots on at the appropriately named LEGburthwaite, another car parked up with four gentlemen on board, about to tackle Raise and White Side – peaks south of our intended route. It turns out they were friends of Allan Boardman – Allan and his wife Sandra are kindly providing me with accommodation later by putting me up at their home – which just shows what a small world it is!
It’s a steep climb up to the top of Sticks Pass and then easier to the summit of Stybarrow Dodd (2770’). Wainwright reckons it’s 2½ miles and 2300’ of ascent, which we managed in about 1h 20m, feeling good, so perhaps the cold has been more or less conquered. The cloud, which at first seemed as though it might stay high, now came down so once again we were up in the mist and light rainy stuff. The wind was getting up too, so on went the waterproofs and out came the compass for the otherwise easy walk to Watson’s Dodd (2584’).
Next came an easy climb to the highest point of the day – Great Dodd (2807’), where the wind was strong enough to give you face-ache and the rather grand stone shelter was a bit deceptive, being about 100 yds from the highest point. A two mile walk to Clough Head (2381’) is fairly featureless apart from the rocky tor of Calfhow Pike about half-way. There was nothing else to see as the cloud /mist / fog got thicker.
Clough Head has dangerously steep
So Friday 13th passed without a hitch. With tomorrow off, the next outing (possibly Grasmere to the Langdales) will be on… the Ides of March.
Thursday 12 March 2009
Day 3 – Back to normality in Swindale
From Branstree almost the whole of the rest of the walk was over wet marshy ground and peat hags. A long drop meant an equally long climb to the top of Tarn Crag (2176’) followed by a gently fall and rise back up to Grey Crag (2093’) where visibility was almost zero and both cameras decided they’d had enough. Not that there was anything to see!
It was a long long walk back to Swindale Head, on a compass bearing at first, then through a sea of long brown grass that must be so low in nutritional value that even the sheep don’t bother eating it. Where Mosedale Beck meets Little Mosedale the land, though quite elevated, is flat and seems to go on for ages, and although the quoted mileage for the day was only eleven, it felt much longer. With the boggy going we agreed it had been a harder day than expected. So now a day off, recharge the batteries, check the weather forecast (not sure why..) before resuming on Friday.
Day 2 – Lucky Horseshoe
Then it was a long slog back up to Great Rigg (2513’), where we rose above the snowline and then continued to the top of Fairfield, at 2863’ the highest top of the day. By now it was getting busy, with lots of people enjoying the fine weather. This was the fifth time I’ve been to the summit of Fairfield but only the first where I’ve been able to see further than about 20 yards. The views were superb, across the Lake District fells to Scafell and High Street,and even as far as Cross Fell, highest point on the Pennines (where I was driven back by Arctic conditions whilst walking the Pennine Way 11 months ago). You could just see the white ‘golf ball’ on the adjacent Great Dun Fell.
The snow was clean, fresh and soft, so the crampons stayed in the rucksack as we traversed Hart Crag (2698’) and Dove Crag (2603’) before dropping down below the snowline again to High Pike (2155’) and the final top of the day, Low Pike (1657’).
Wednesday 11 March 2009
The Walk Starts
After an intricate route past Brownrigg that seemed to take forever (excitement provided by two deer) we got to the second top, Little Mell Fell (1657') - marginally more interesting than its Great predecessor (because the trigpoint is set in a miniature moat) - and then set off for the day's third and final top, Gowbarrow Fell, (1579') overlooking Ullswater. We got caught in a shower and it was pretty boggy going underfoot. A herd of sheep decided we were there to feed them and followed us for a quarter of a mile before getting fed up, but not fed. A pleasant descent past Aira Falls took us back to the second car which we had parked by Ullswater, and it kindly poured down again just as we were taking our boots off.
Friday 6 March 2009
Fame at Last...
Wednesday 4 March 2009
Training on hold... man 'flu strikes
Incidentally, I watched some daytime TV yesterday from my bed. It confirmed my theory that it's designed by the government for prisoners, who are forced to watch it as part of their punishment.